Secondhand September and Obroni Wawu – Dead White Man’s Clothes: A Reflection on Consumerism and Fast Fashion

Janet Yaa
Sep 18
10 min read

Exploring the Impact of Mass Consumption on Local Communities

By Janet Yaa

Consumer culture often reveals itself in the most ordinary daily moments. Recently, I found myself hesitating over a luxury leather tote bag left in my online cart; when I finally decided to buy, it was sold out. This minor disappointment highlights a broader truth: strategic delay can curb impulsive consumption. Do you ever yearn for new clothes while your wardrobe is already overflowing? Many of us are swept up in this cycle—acquiring garments, wearing them only a handful of times, and then discarding or donating them. Regret follows, yet the urge to shop persists, revealing how challenging it can be to resist hyper-consumption in an age of abundance.

Awareness of social and environmental issues in fashion is rising, especially regarding fast fashion’s impact. Many consumers are troubled by low wages, poor working conditions, and environmental consequences. Brands like Shein have faced criticism for paying workers as little as three cents per item and enforcing punishingly long hours. This is symptomatic of deeper systemic problems within the global fashion industry.

This summer, inspired by audiobooks such as Aja Barber’s Consumed and Patrick Grant’s Less, I returned to the roots of Wardrobe Yarns—a project focused on the stories behind the garments we wear, conscious fashion, style and the second-hand market, known as Obroni Wawu (dead whiteman’s clothes in Twi, an Akan language spoken in Ghana). I was prompted to attempt writing a more extensive and detailed article.

Barber, a sustainability consultant and activist, argues that contemporary consumerism, particularly in fast fashion, is entangled with colonial legacies and economic inequities. Many garment factories remain in formerly colonised nations, perpetuating exploitation through resource extraction and waste. Confronting these uncomfortable realities empowers us, as consumers, to shift our habits and interrogate the emotional and psychological drives behind our purchases.

Similarly, Patrick Grant, cloth merchant, renown for The Great British Sewing Bee and champion of British craftsmanship, urges us to abandon overconsumption and fast fashion, returning instead to local manufacturing, quality, and sustainability. His vision: a happier, more equitable society built on enduring values.

What Is Fast Fashion?

Fast fashion is defined by rapid, mass production of low-cost clothing, enabling consumers to purchase the latest trends and discard them just as swiftly. This cycle encourages overconsumption, with profound economic, environmental, and social consequences—especially for communities in the Global South. The industry is vast: the Australian Human Rights Institute estimates its annual value at $1.7 trillion, employing over 300 million people worldwide. In 2023, forty per cent of US and 26% of UK shoppers patronised fast fashion giants Temu or Shein (The State of Fashion 2024 report).

The Economic Impact

Textile workers working in a textile factory in Bangladesh (image from OxFam What She Makes) — *Textile workers working in a textile factory in Bangladesh (image from OxFam* ***What She Makes***)

Globally, the garment and textile industries employ around 75 million people—about 1% of the world’s population—with women making up 75% of the skilled workforce. Child labour also persists, particularly in South East Asia. In Bangladesh, India, and China, these industries have spurred economic growth; Bangladesh, for example, has seen 5–6% annual GDP growth since 1996, contributing to poverty reduction. Yet workers often endure gruelling hours and meagre pay, earning only 0.6% of a t-shirt’s retail price (Greenpeace). Poor working conditions and industrial accidents, such as the Rana Plaza factory collapse in 2013, remain a persistent threat.

Greenpeace and other organisations like Fairtrade International and Good Weave International are working to improve wages and workplace safety. Despite these efforts, the proliferation of cheap, mass-produced garments threatens traditional artisans and local manufacturers, often leading to job losses and eroding cultural heritage.

In Ghana’s Kantamanto Market, traders are adept at upcycling and reselling imported clothing, but the sheer volume of poor-quality fast fashion leads to massive landfill waste. Ghana now advocates for EPR schemes to address the problem.

The Environmental Consequences

The garment industry is a major polluter, responsible for about 10% of global carbon emissions and 20% of wastewater, mainly due to dyeing and finishing processes (Sci-Tech-Today). These emissions surpass those from international aviation and shipping combined.

Textile production demands enormous energy, water, and chemicals, resulting in polluted waterways and toxic air. Local communities, especially in the Global South, bear the brunt of these environmental hazards. The churn of fast fashion generates mountains of textile waste: just 10–30% of donated clothing in Global North charity shops is sold, with the rest shipped overseas. Ghana and Kenya, for instance, face mounting waste from imported used garments, overwhelming local waste management systems.

Greenpeace visits places of textile production, distribution, markets and waste disposals. Used and new clothes are sent to Kenya from Europe and China to be sold as so called “Mitumba” but often they end up as landfill and waste disposal due to the huge amount. Here: Textile and plastic waste at Dandora dump site in Nairobi © Kevin McElvaney / Greenpeace

Polyester—a synthetic fibre derived from fossil fuels—is ubiquitous in fast fashion. It sheds microplastics into air and water during washing and disposal, contributing to global pollution. The Clean Up Kenya and Wildlight for the Changing Markets Foundation report that EU countries dump 37 million pieces of "junk plastic clothing" in Kenya annually. The EU has proposed regulations requiring recycled fibre use by 2030 and banning the destruction of unsold stock.

Nii, a local fishermen, wades through the rags (Muntaka Chasant/Shutterstock)

Studies estimate humans may ingest up to 52,000 microplastics per year—the equivalent of 50 plastic bags or even one credit card weekly (Bai et al., 2022; Gruber et al., 2022), though this has been contested. Microplastics have been detected in saliva, blood, breast milk, and major organs, raising significant health concerns.

(Source: statista.com) — *(Source:* *statista.com*)

Textile Waste and Collection

The UK exemplifies fast fashion’s hyper-consumption. With a million tonnes of textiles discarded annually—300,000 tonnes go in household bins, with 20% to landfill and 80% incinerated—charity shops struggle to manage the overflow. Contamination and damage often render this clothing unrecyclable.

The Fashion Transparency Index reveals that most major brands (89%) do not disclose their annual production, and nearly half (45%) withhold material emission data. This opacity signals a lack of accountability and a prioritisation of profits over environmental stewardship.

Greenpeace has documented textile waste in Kenya, where used clothes sent from Europe and China often end up in landfills. These overwhelming volumes of imported garments create daunting environmental and social challenges.

Greenpeace visits places of textile production, distribution, markets and waste disposals. Used and new clothes are sent to Tanzania from Europe and China to be sold as so called “Mitumba” but often they end up as landfill and waste disposal due to the huge amount. Here: riverside with textile waste disposal near Dar el Salaam © Kevin McElvaney / Greenpeace

Social Consequences, Health, Wellbeing and Human Rights

Fast fashion’s social impact is as deep as its economic and ecological footprint. The relentless pursuit of trends fosters a disposable attitude toward clothing, disconnecting us from the people who make our garments and weakening our relationship with what we wear.

The industry exacerbates social inequality, relying on cheap labour in developing countries and promoting unrealistic beauty standards. Workers face hazardous conditions—respiratory illnesses, skin diseases, and even cancer are common in communities near production sites. A study of 200 Bangladeshi women reported widespread health issues linked to textile work (Fashion Revolution).

Excess stock is often incinerated; Burberry, for instance, burned £26 million worth of goods in 2018 before the practice became more secretive. Recycling is difficult, as garments are made from mixed fibres and cheap materials, leading to more waste. Greenpeace’s Unearthed investigation found that waste from major brands, such as Nike, Ralph Lauren,Michael Kors, Reebok, Next, Diesel and Clarks, is burned as fuel in Cambodian brick kilns, producing toxic smoke and harming workers’ health.

Child labour remains a grim reality. Poverty forces families to send children—especially girls—into garment work, perpetuating generational cycles of disadvantage. The United Nations and other agencies urge businesses to avoid suppliers using child labour and to enforce clear anti-recruitment policies. Gender-based violence and harassment are also prevalent, with poor enforcement of labour laws compounding these problems.

Impact on Mental Health

The fast fashion industry takes a toll on workers’ mental health, with unsafe, exploitative conditions leading to stress and trauma. Child labourers endure anxiety and low self-esteem. For consumers, the barrage of new trends can foster feelings of inadequacy, anxiety, and depression, intensified by celebrity culture and social media. For example, Levi Strauss & Co. saw a 20% rise in foot traffic after Beyoncé mentioned their jeans, while Taylor Swift’s Coachella appearance with a Stella McCartney bag caused a 75% spike in interest. These social pressures encourage overconsumption and can negatively affect wellbeing.

The Loss of Local Craftsmanship

Fast fashion undermines local craftsmanship, threatening traditional textile industries and cultural identity. In regions where garment-making is both an economic and cultural cornerstone, cheap imports can obliterate artisanal skills. Eco-Age’s documentary, Fashionscapes: Artisans Guatemaya, highlights the plight of Guatemalan artisans whose centuries-old craft is endangered by shifting fashion values and foreign appropriation rather than partnership. The loss of traditional methods, often more sustainable, accelerates homogenisation and erodes cultural diversity.

Supply Chain Inequities

Fast fashion’s supply chains are infamously opaque, making it difficult to trace garment origins or hold brands accountable. Power imbalances favour multinational corporations, perpetuating exploitation and environmental harm. The pursuit of lower costs leads to shortcuts and unethical practices, including child and forced labour. The absence of extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes further compounds waste issues, especially in importing countries.

The UK’s fashion and textile sector is valued at $62 billion, supporting 1.3 million jobs and generating $23 billion in tax revenue. However, the UK is Europe’s largest clothing waste producer and the world’s second-biggest exporter of used garments. In Ghana’s Kantamanto Market, traders are adept at upcycling and reselling imported clothing, but the sheer volume of poor-quality fast fashion leads to massive landfill waste. Ghana now advocates for EPR schemes to address the problem. The Or Foundation’s "Dead White Man’s Clothes" project offers a sobering look at fashion waste exports (https://youtu.be/bB3kuuBPVys).

One of the founders of The Or Foundation has asserted that the second-hand clothing industry, more commercial than charitable, emphasises the need for extended producer responsibility (EPR). Garments from many popular global brands are also dumped, in the Atacama Desert in Chile, making it one of the fastest-growing sites for discarded clothing worldwide.

Greenwashing in Fast Fashion

Many fast fashion brands engage in greenwashing, touting sustainability efforts that mask ongoing overproduction and waste. According to Green Peace, initiatives like H&M’s "Green Machine" remain largely unimplemented, and resale platforms from major brands do little to stem the tide of disposable clothing. Legislative action is needed to address these issues; a 2019 UK Parliament investigation recommended measures to curb textile waste, but progress has been slow.

Paths Toward Transformative Change

Addressing fast fashion’s harms requires systemic change. This entails sustainable production, worker empowerment, and a shift in consumer behaviour. Alternative models—such as slow fashion, which values quality, durability, and local craftsmanship—offer promising solutions. The circular economy, emphasising reuse and recycling, can reduce fashion’s environmental impact, but demands a fundamental change in how we value clothing.

Technological innovation is crucial, from recycled materials to digital tools that improve supply chain transparency. Investment in research and development, together with industry commitment, is essential for progress.

Making an Impact: Strategies for Sustainable Fashion Choices

Hold Companies Accountable: Use the UK’s Green Claims Code to challenge misleading environmental marketing.
Join Campaigns: Engage with groups like Fashion Revolution and Labour Behind the Label to scrutinize company practices.
Cultivate a Relationship with Clothing: Buy second-hand, support sustainable brands, and connect with communities that swap, rent, repair, or upcycle garments.
Learn and Create: Develop skills in sewing, crocheting, or knitting to deepen appreciation for craftsmanship.

The Power of Consumer Demand

Every purchase shapes the fashion industry’s trajectory. If consumers reject disposable, oil-based synthetic garments made under poor conditions, brands will be compelled to change.

Awareness of Fashion’s History

Understanding the exploitation embedded in the fashion industry—from slavery in cotton fields to modern polyester pollution—underscores the urgency for reform.

In sum, tackling the impact of fast fashion on local communities is complex and demands a systemic approach. Examining power dynamics, policy, and pathways to transformation brings us closer to a sustainable and just fashion system. Progress requires commitment from governments, businesses, and consumers alike. As individuals striving for sustainable style, remember: change can begin with a single, thoughtful choice.